Nara, Kyoto in Autumn

Colored autumn leaves at Taima temple 

From Nov. 27th to 29th I and my husband traveled Nara & Kyoto.
Taking bullet train "Shinkansen" and local train from Tokyo early morning arrived Nara around 10am. First place we went was Taima temple. The temple was constructed in 612. The temple is famous of displaying Taima Mandala which has legend of Chujyohime (princess Cyujyo) wove the entire Taima mandala tapestry in one night.
Also they have “Miroku (Maitreya) Buddha” and “Shitenno,” the oldest dry lacquer statues in Japan.


It was very good season of seeing autumn leaves colored yellow, orange and red. The foliage were as beautiful as brocade.

The garden of Akishino temple 

After the Taima temple we visited Akishino temple. Walking about 20min. from Yamato Saidaiji station you see the gate which has taste of "Wabi (translated as subdued refinement) ." Passing the gate you see beautiful the velvety moss-covered garden. It is a small temple but had nice quiet atmosphere. In main hall, there are some of the Buddha statues. Among them the standing statue of female deity Gigeiten, the patron god of the arts is well known. Her gentle, soft face inspired many artists.

　On the way back to the hotel we found Sake bar "Nara Izumi" where serves many kinds of sake produced from Nara prefecture. We tasted 4 kinds and they were very tasty.
　
　Second day, we visited Shin Yakushiji temple which located near our hotel. First impression was a small temple. But once I got in inside of main hall, I was astonished. A large sitting Yakushinyorai (Buddha able to cure all ills) was encircle by the twelve divine generals with full feelings of lively motions. They were simply overwhelming!

　Next we went to Hokke-do (Sangatsu-do) of Todaiji. Todaiji is most famous temple and landmark in Nara. All the Buddha placed there looked great. Especially Fukukenjaku Kannon was gorgeous. There is a crystal between her perms. We looked into monocle and see it well. Also the Kannon holds lopes in her lower arms. It is said the Kannon uses this rope to catch wandering souls and lead them to salvation.

Myoshinji temple

We moved to Kyoto and stayed over at temple lodge of Myoshinji temple. I like stay over at temple lodge some times. There is no
TV. Quiet atmosphere and healthy vegetarian food...feel like I am purified.

Last day we decided to spend the time for the things related to "Cha do (the way of tea)"since I'm practicing tea gathering. 　
 We went Chado Research Center Galleries and Daitokuji Temple. In Chado Research Center Galleries we looked at many kinds of tea bowls. Also we were served green tea and Japanese sweets. Each person was served green tea in different tea bowl created by different artists. The tea bowl served me was made by the artist who hosted tea gathering in Tokyo about 1 month ago. So I was surprised by a chance.

Tea room in Kotoku-in

In Daitokuji temple we looked at some of tea rooms. Tea room has an element of imperfect. Leaving something unfinished for the play of imagination to complete. So the structure avoid symmetry and repetition. For instance windows are placed asymmetry, a different kind of wood is used for the pillar of alter from other pillars. In old time samurai (warrior) had to leave his sword on the rack beneath the eaves before entering to tea room. Tea room was the space for peace. The tea room in Kotoku-in of Daitokuji temple was my favorite. I imagined that it would be great to spend the time passes slowly by drinking green tea in the room with the feeling of  "Wakeiseijyaku (means harmony, respect, purity, tranquility)" .

The garden of Kotoku-in

Fukushima - Aizu, Mt. Bandai

Tsuruga-jo Castle

From Sep. 2nd to 4th, we drove a car to Aizu and Mt. Bandai in Fukushima prefecture.
At first we headed for the Tsuruga-jo Castle.
The castle was rebuilt in 1965 as imitation of the castle was there when there was the Boshin War（1868 - 1869）. So it looks kind of new, but the original one was famous as a fine castle, which didn't collapse for 1 month from harsh attack of the Boshin War.  The picture of the castle of that time was exhibited inside of the new castle. The castle was horribly ravaged, but stood firmly. The image reminded me of earnest and strong mind of people in Aizu. You also see other important documentation exhibited.
From the top floor you see the town of Aizu. According to a local guide it is forbidden to built the building higher than the castle. The castle is still symbol of the local people beyond time.

The moat of Tsuruga-castle

The garden of the castle was very large more than I imagined. The deep moat absorbing the weight of time was very beautiful. I was astonished by the brilliance of technique and all effort of big stones are assembled to make these moats.
In the garden, there is also famous tearoom "Rinkaku" which son of tea master Sen Rikyu,  Shoan made for Gamo Ujisato. He provided shelter to Shoan when Sen Rikyu was orderd suicide by disembowelment by Toyotomi Hideyoshi and helped rebuild family line of grand tea master. Unfortunately the place was under the construction and covered by sheets. Since I was looking forward seeing this place so much I was deeply disappointed.

The view from the hotel room.

We stayed over at the hotel located Ashinomaki Onsen, hot spring area. They gave us better room than we reserved. The view from the window was picturesque.


Next morning we ate breakfast at the earliest time, headed for Mt. Bandai. Mt. Bandai has another name as "Mt.Fuji of Aizu", its altitude is 1819m and designated as one of "100 famous mountains in Japan". The view from the summit is should be brilliant with 360 degree panorama. Since it took more time to get the starting point of a trail from Ashinomaki Onsen than we expected we chose a easiest trail "Happodai Mountain Trail".


It was a misty day. But we had hoped it would clear up before we reached to the summit. The course was not difficult, but most of the trail was rocky, so I needed to concentrate to where to put my legs that produced me fatigue.
After walking about 30min., we smelt of sulfur, saw ruined Japanese inn. It was Nakanoyu Onsen Ryokan which survived eruption of Mt. Bandai in 1888, but closed business in 1990.
Hot springs was still there. We took a rest at "Koubou Shimizu" near summit of the mountain. The mist was getting thick. I saw the top of other mountains in cloud about 30sec at Koubou Shimizu. That was the last time I saw some kind of landscape. After that there was just fog. At summit unfortunately we saw nothing but fog.

Local people who we met on the way told us, the view from the summit around this time is splendid. The colors of gold rice stalk on rice paddy, green forests, blue lakes...How disappointing. Well it can't be helped, we can't control nature.

Around Nakanoyu Onsen Ryokan	The summit of Mt. Bandai

We stayed that night at Hoshino Resort Hotel at Mt. Bandai. Here too, we got better room than we reserved.The room was very comfortable and the dinner was tasty. At least we got good luck for the hotels. Next morning we got up early and walked around lakes.  Breathing moist air wrapped in the silence, I felt really good.

On the way going back to Tokyo, we dropped by a shop sell Aizu lacquerware and bought a tray which 3 cute rabbits are drawn. Also visited Ouchi-juku; a small old village where designated traditional architectures preservation district.

Ouchi-juku

Tokyo - Shibamata

The statue of "Tora-san"

Shibamata is in Katsushika ward of East Tokyo where you can experience traditional downtown atmosphere of  Edo period. Popular Japanese comedy movie series "Tora-san"in the 1969-1995 located in this area. So you see the bronze statue of Tora-san in front of the Shibamata station.

When you get out of the station you are already on the approach to the Taishakuten temple, many shops sell traditional Japanese snacks and gifts are lined on both side.
Fresh water fish and mugwort-flavored rice dumplings are famous local foods of Shibamata.

Taishakuten temple is a Buddhist temple of Hokkeshu -sect founded in 1629 which enshrine wooden board of Taishakuten (Indira) image on one side and the other side with wooden print block of the odaimoku carved by St. Nichiren.
In this temple, the reliefs which narrate the teach of Lotus Sutra and the garden view with long corridor are superb.　

After the Taishakuten, walked to the Eodogawa river, ride on Yagiri-no-Watashi, ferry boat established by Tokugawa government in the early Edo period is available for visitors to across the Edogawa river.
The Taishakuten temple area and Yagiri ferry crossing have been selected by the Ministry of the Environment in their choice of "100 Best Places of Delight Sounds in Japan".

approach to Taishakuten temple	Taishakuten - temple	The relief of Taishakuten
The garden of Taishakuten	The garden of Taishakuten	Exuviae of cicada at Taishakuten

Ferry "Yagiri-no-watashi"

Again coming back to the Shibamata side by the ferry, there is a Tora-san museum on the river bank. Even you don't know the stories of the Tora-san films, you can enjoy seeing the settings.

On the way to heading back to the station we took a rest at Yamamoto - tei. It is the house of Yamamoto Einosuke, a businessperson in the Taisho era.  It opened to the public in 1991 with a Cafe inside. Drinking green tea in the traditional style Japanese house as watching the beautiful Shoin-style garden gives you very relaxing time calms mind.

Sets at Tora-san memorial Museum

Islands of the Seto Inland Sea and Art Setouchi

Copper smeltery at Inujima island

We traveled Islands of the Seto Inland Sea from May 22nd -25th to see art project"Art Setouchi".  Unfortunately taking picture of the art works was not allowed. Anyway I guess go there and feel them is the best experience rather than seeing pictures.

First we visited Inujima.
The　most remarkable art work on Inujima was made inside of closed copper smeltery, built 1909. It was operated only 10 years. The scenery of tall chimneys and heavy walls made by red bricks which many parts were collapsed and covered by trees and leaves gives you feeling of desolation.  Also the contrast of calm sea and the smeltery where once many workers were working was something.  The museum was built inside of the architecture. The concept of the art work was about life of Mishima Yukio. He is a famous writer who committed suicide at the building of the Tokyo headquarters of the Eastern Command of Japan's Self-Defense Forces after his speech of Nationalism. His life and historical background of this smeltery were well matched.

Kusama's pumpkin at Naoshima island

In Teshima island there was an art work of Rei Naito in Teshima Art Museum which I wanted see the most. When you enter the white shell like architecture you see water drops coming through the white concrete floor. A water drop connect to another water drop, repeat the action, create a pool of water. Looking at the movement was like looking at moving sperm in uterus giving the energy of birth.  There were 2 holes on the roof. From there I could see blue sky and bright green leaves. Being there was feeling timeless time.

Unfortunately since we had to lined up to see this work we gave up seeing other art works because of the shortness of time for a ferry to Naoshima island. If you are planning to go this island I recommend you to take 1 full day visit for this island.

Japanese inn "Shioya"

After Teshima we moved to Naoshima, it was already at dusk. We stayed at Japanese inn named "Shioya". The dinner served at the inn was delicious! It was mainly seafood from Seto Inland Sea. And the way the proprietress seasoned created delicate harmony to the food. We refilled rice to a rice bowl again and again. As you see the picture on right, in Naoshima some of the housed put curtain at entrance. These designs were very cute.

Next day we visited Chichu Art Museum, Lee Ufan Museum, Benesse House Museum and Art House Project in Naoshima. View of the Seto Inland Sea from Benesse House Museum was magnificent. Islands floating on spacious ocean...I could understand the thought of pirates existed long time ago running around the sea in this area. Most of the art works placed there made me realized the relationship of human activity and nature.  The artworks existed harmoniously with this environment.

The view of Seto Inland Sea from a ferry

Well, time passed slowly and calmly at Setouchi.

Tokyo - Mt. Ootake

Mitake shrine

May 17th, we climbed Mt.Ootake, located at western part of Tokyo, its height is 1,266.5m (4155ft). There are a couple of roots to climb Mt.Ootake and we chose most common root, climbing through Mt. Mitake. This is my second time to climb. 1st time I took the cable car to the top of Mt. Mitake. But this time we walked from the starting point. Walking a well‐paved road for about 50min, we reached to the top of Mt. Mitake. There are approximately 150 people live in Mt. Mitake. There are a visitor’s information, many suvenior shops and temple lodgings. Also since mythical dog is enshrined at the Mitake shrine, you see people with dogs for praying. From Mt. Mitake you can climb Mt. Ootake and hike to the Mt. Hinode and the Rock Garden, well known with beautiful Rocks coated by green moss along the a mountain stream.

Stone‐carved guardian dogs

We headed for Mt. Ootake.
Walking through refreshing green mountain trail, more you come to close to the top you get a rocky area. Chains and ropes are prepared for safety climbing. We probably walked 2 hours and reached to the shrine near the summit. There was a pair of stone‐carved guardian dogs…looked bit comical. Another 15min. walk we finally reached to the top. Good Surprise!  I saw beautiful Mt.Fuji in front of me which gave me the feeling of holliness. I always think feeling of accomplishment and the beautiful view from the summit were exquisite when I climb the mountain.

the summit of Mt. Ootake

Tokyo - Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens

Imitation of tsutenkyo bridge

Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens was built by Tokugawa Yorifusa who was the loｒd of Mito (former Ibaraki prefecture) in 1629 and completed as a garden during the time of 2nd lord Mitsukuni. It is a Kaiyu-style (landscape gardens in the go-round style). You walk the garden clockwise around the lake and see the recreation of well known scenery one after another. For instance you can see the imitation of tsutenkyo bridge, the bank of Lake Xi Hu and landscape of Biwa Lake.
You can experience many beautiful elements of those nature by just walking this garden.
Also since Mitukuni invited Confucian scholar "Zhu Zhiyu" from China for designing of the garden, you feel Chinese flavor from place to place.

Engetsu-kyo (Full Moon Bridge) 

Engetsu-kyo (Full Moon Bridge) is considered which was designed by Zhu Zhiyu.
The name came from the reflected shape of the bridge on water surface that looks like full moon.
The structure of the bridge is historically important to know about those days.

In the garden, different blooming flowers are seen all the year around.
Spring - Cherry blossom, Japanese wisteria
Summer - Japanese iris, Hydrangea, Lotus
Autumn - Lespedeza, Maple
Winter - Plum-blossom, Camellia

The garden is designated as the Special Places of Scenic Beauty and Special Historic Sites of the country. And double designation is quite rare.

Nara

March 22 - 24th, We went to Nara. This time we visited the temples located far from central Nara.
Day 1: Toshodaiji ->　Yakushiji  ->　Horyuji　 ->　Chu-gu-ji
Day 2: Murouji　 ->　Hase-dera　 ->　Hokkeji　 ->Futaiji
Day 3: Gansenji　 ->　Jyoruriji

Of course  famous temple such as Horyuji's archtecture and Buddha statues are splendid, but here I would like to write about mountain temples which stood out in my mind.

Kondo Hall of  Murouji-temple

Murouji: The temple of esoteric buddhism. It is reffered as "Women's Koyasan", because the temple permitted entrance to women while Koyasan permitted only to men. Inside of the shingle-roofed Kondo Hall, there was a number of wooden Buddhist statues which have a style of early Heian Period (794-1185). Among them"Chuson Shaka Nyorai"had strong aura. Vibrant painting on its halo was still clear beyond 1000 years of the time. And Standing statue of the Eleven-faced Kannon Bosatsu was looking at me through slightly opened eyes as if she could see all the things about me.








Cloister of Hase-temple

Hase-temple: The very long cloister connecting to the main temple locate the top of a mountain, the stage built on a cliff etc...the scale of the architecture was overwhelming. It was a huge temple using geographical features beautifully. You see nice traditional-looking Japanese village from the stage built on the main temple. Standing on the stage makes you feel like you are playing a role in the magnificent scenery. In side of the main temple there was a gigantic Eleven-faced Kannon Bosatsu, which 1,018cm height. It is the biggest wooden Buddha in Japan.





Carved stone Buddhist images

Gansenji: It took about 30 min by buss from central Nara. It is a small temple but the principal image of Buddha's face was something I can't forget. More you look its face, more your minds calm down. The chief priest said the image shows infinite capacity towards people.
From Gansenji to Joururiji, you can walk mountain pass. On the pass you meet carved stone Buddhist images here and there.

Nozawa Nagano

I accompanied my husband for ski, and visited Nozawa in Nagano prefecture. Ski slopes at there were located quite high altitude and a very long lift took us there. In silent snow mountain, only clop of the lift made the sound. Sitting on the lift looking down river and valley was quite frightening at first, but more I rode I got used to it and I had room to breathe. I imagined myself being a bird, started enjoying the view.

Many hot spring district has rustic retro-flavored atmosphere. But Nozawa is not. 13 open air baths, stylish restaurants and bars, tasty back noodle shops, cute Japanese folk art gift shops were gathering in small cozy area. It was fun to walk around.
Nozawa was selected "52 Places to Go in 2014" by NY Times's article in Jan.
So there were many foreigners, too.

By the way according to my husband, Nozawa is great place to ski. The snow is powder snow and there are many varied slopes.

Of course famous Nozawa pickles were crispy and tasty!